Lounging in Loreto

 

Most unfortunately, the first question about any Mexican town is, "Is it safe."  If you have been to Loreto, the question seems silly.  Loreto is the Mexican Mayberry.  It is the most family oriented town I have ever visited.  During our short 5 day stay we observed an elementary school parade, and two well attended weekend evening events in the town square featuring the children of Loreto.

The reason to visit is to take advantage of failure.  Loreto was to be the next great tourist destination--a second Cabo.  After all it adjoins a national marine park with five islands and abundant sea life.  It has a town beach and is designated a Pueblo Magico, a magic town.

A second Cabo?  Not so much.  But in anticipation of unencumbered over development Mexico built an airport two miles from the city.   It is a mere two hour flight from Los Angeles on Alaska or Volaris Airlines.  Easy is good.  

So with little effort you can luxuriate in well priced, tasty Mexican seafood, friendly, inexpensive accommodations, the charm of a small town and the adventures of a national marine park.  Generally between January and March you can see Blue Whales, the largest mammals on the face of the earth.  Year around, fishing boats go out and restaurants are available to cook your catch.

A must for any visitor is a boat ride to Coronado Island.  For about 1300 pesos, a little under 70 dollars, per person, you will enjoy 1.  Birds galore

2. Sea Lions

3. Unusual rock formations

4. Water temperature permitting, snorkeling 

5. A beautiful beach

6. A nondescript lunch, non-pictured.

The uninteresting lunch notwithstanding, if I have whet your appetite for Loreto, the next question is where to stay.  

First you must decide whether to stay in, or out, of town.  About 40 minutes away is the posh, well reviewed,  Villa De Palmar on the beach Ensenada Blanca.  It is a large resort on the water with well reviewed restaurants.  However, most visitors to Loreto are not looking to spend between 250 and 350 dollars per night.

A little closer in, about 25 minutes from town, is the Loreto Bay Golf Resort.  Rooms often go on sale for close to 100 dollars per night.  The area is near the new developments that house many expats.  The beach is attractive.

With either resort you will need a car, or be at the mercy of high taxi prices to get to, and from, town.  The inclusiveness of a resort, excludes you from the ambience of Mexican life.  I strongly advise you to consider one of the charming small hotels in town.

We stayed at Casa Mango, a five unit hotel with a lovely courtyard.  

The spotless rooms have a bedroom with a king size bed, a well equipped small kitchen, and a sitting area with a large tv.  Free bicycles are available.  The staff is friendly, but unfortunately the much praised owner, was out of the county during our visit.  The room was about 100 dollars a night including breakfast at the well regarded, Orlando restaurant.

The location was perfect.  We were a 5 minute walk to the main square, and a 10 minute walk from the town beach and the pier for boat trips to Coronado and other islands.

Delightful dining, was between one and five minutes away.  

Virtually next door was Gorditas Loreto for great flautas and, of course, gorditas. 

 El Pelicanos was almost as close,  with cheap, tasty, fish and shrimp tacos and a generous Mezcalita.

Our favorite dish in town was the chili rellleno with shrimp and seafood at Playa Blanca.  The restaurant is in the center above Mike's Bar.  When the restaurant is open they lower the stairs.  Our meal also included a lovely free appetizer.

The best fish on our trip was at La Picazon.  The restaurant is worth trying if you rent a car for a day.  Otherwise the cost of a taxi to this remote restaurant on the water at the end of a meandering dirt road would be prohibitive.  The freshly caught fish and the chocolate clams (color of the shell) are spectacular.  Note the drinks are over priced, a Mezcalita setting us back 17 dollars.  Also when we asked to substitute beans for rice we were denied and instead charged 9 dollars for a small serving of the worst frijoles ever.

Staying in town is about wandering the streets enjoying the beauty and charm.

A few helpful hints.  The best ATM is in Super Leys market.  The ATM at the bank in the center is handy, but has an awful exchange rate.  If you are exchanging dollars for pesos, there is a money changer near El Pescador Market and also on the second floor of Azteca Bank.  Note that to exchange money you need your Passport and one other picture ID such as your driver's license.

Alamo was the most reasonable one day car rental.  Final recommendation is to buy a bottle of tequila for the room.  It deserves it, and so do you.  Cactus and Cactus II have the best selection.